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Contact us at: richard@northracecars.com or 816-436-1610

Rear Disk Installation Instructions

>>>>>FOR MORE DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS WITH PICTURES, CLICK HERE<<<<<

4-Lug

Cobra

SN95

Description
Part Numbers
Description
Part Numbers
Description
Part Numbers
Rotors (2)
5455 generic part for 88 Turbo Coupe
Rotors (2)
#54036 (2) 94+ Mustang Cobra
Rotors (2)
#54017 (2) 94+ Mustang
Soft lines from caliper to housing (1 each)
Brake Best 380371 380372 these are for a Mustang but are mush less moeny that the TC parts
Soft lines from caliper to housing (1 each)
#380371 and #380372 94/95 Mustang
Soft lines from caliper to housing (1 each)
#380371 and #380372 94/95+ Mustang
Calipers Turbo Coupe loaded (1 each)
#4509 and #4508 loaded. Make sure they come with the support or pad bracket
Calipers SN95 Mustang Cobra loaded (1 each)
#M2320 CR from FRPP 94+ Mustang Cobra
Calipers SN95 loaded (1 each)
#4545 and #4544 94 to 04 Mustang
New E-brake cables 2 needed 79-92
#M2809A (2) Ford Racing or North Racecars NOT local
New E-brake cables (2) 79-92
#M2809A (2) MotorSport part not a parts store
New E-brake cables (2) 79-92
#M2809A (2) MotorSport part not a parts store
Optional: Dust Shields (2) Dealer Item
#F4ZZ 2C028A. Generally we do not install these.

Optional: Dust Shields (2) Dealer Item

#F4ZZ 2C028A Really a splash guard
Optional: Dust Shields (2) Dealer Item
#F4ZZ 2C028A Really a splash guard

*Notes about parts. The caliper is the same, the support or pad bracket and the pads (thinner) are the only differences in the Cobra or Mustang rear brakes. We have listed the Ford Racing part number for the Cobra caliper and the support bracket. If using 94 to 04 GT parts the part numbers are #4544 and #4545. The parts store may show #4544A and #4545A for the Cobra. The support bracket and the pads are the only difference.

 

4-Lug Instructions

Place vehicle securely on jack stands prior to starting disassembly. Remove wheels and brake drums on both sides

  1. Remove cover in the center of rear end and catch the gear oil.  If fluid is old, replace with new and add new friction modifier after all steps below are finished.  Once cover is off, remove the 5/16” bolt that holds the big pin in the center of the traction lock unit. Remove pin once free.
  2. Tap axles in to expose the C clips in the center of rear end.  The big pin held the axles, so this is where the C clips will be.  Remove C clips on each side, if worn-replace clips.  Once C clips are out/off, the axles should slide out.  DO NOT TURN EITHER AXLE WHILE REMOVING OR INSTALLING OR THE SPIDER GEARS WILL FALL OUT.  THEY ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL.  ALSO LEAVE THE SPRING INSTALLED THE C CLIPS WILL COME OUT WITH THEM INSTALLED
  3. The four bolts hidden by the axle hold the brake backing plates on.  Remove brake lines from rear of wheel cylinder on both sides, Remove all of the old brake parts as one unit, repeat on the other side.  Remember to keep the bolts as they hold on the new NRC brackets. (Backing plates are not re-used).
  4. Your new brackets mount where the backing plates used to be.  Mount the brackets so the top (The part with two ears) tilts inboard and to the rear of the car re-using the bolts from step 6.  They are marked left and right-they may appear to be the same, but are not.
  5. PUT ‘C’ CLIPS ON AND PUSH AXLES BACK TO THEIR NORMAL POSITION. Install pin to hold axles.
  6. Mount rotors using one or two lug nuts. Mount support brackets and check for fit.  We over offset our brackets inboard intentionally.  We have found that there are variations in rear ends, gears and axles.  It is much easier to shim out than to grind off to fit.   The install order is bolt head, bracket washer caliper.  If the washers need to be doubled that is fine.  No washer is also fine, the key is to center the support bracket over the rotor.  It is close, but as long at there is space on both sides of the rotor it is fine.  Remember to get C clips on before checking calipers and rotors for fit.  The optional dust shields can be mounted at this time.
  7. Put the flex line in place on the top of the lower control arm mount, right between the shock and the housing where the old hard line was.  It fits really well in one spot, it lines the soft brake hose with the caliper well the soft line will have a nice S bend.  The hard line will need to be bent or relocated to line up.  Two holes may need to be drilled-one for the mounting hole and one for the alignment tab.  If the original line clamps have the screws in them, you can use them or get another to keep the lines fixed in their original location.  We have found that relocating the lines works the best, so using the old screws in the new holes works fine.
  8. Cut, bend and double flare the hard line to go from the old drums to the newly mounted soft line.  The hard line will be cut several inches in order to fit.  Use the supplied red fitting to make the connection.  Don’t forget to put the fitting on before you flare the line.  (If this sounds like the voice of experience, it is)!
  9. Make sure all the connections to the brake system are tight. Bleed brakes, reinstall traction lock pin, bolt and cover. Fill with fluid, reinstall wheels, remove vehicle from jack stands and test brakes in a safe area.

 

Cobra Instructions

 Place vehicle securely on jack stands prior to starting disassembly. Remove wheels and brake drums.

  1. Remove cover in the center of rear end and catch the gear oil.  If fluid is old, replace with new and add new friction modifier after all steps below are finished.  Once cover is off, remove the 5/16” bolt that holds the big pin in the center of the traction lock unit. Remove pin once free.
  2. Tap axles in to expose the C clips in the center of rear end.  The big pin held the axles, so this is where the C clips will be.  Remove C clips on each side, if worn-replace clips.  Once C clips are out/off, the axles should slide out.  DO NOT TURN EITHER AXLE WHILE REMOVING OR INSTALLING OR THE SPIDER GEARS WILL FALL OUT.  THEY ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL.  ALSO LEAVE THE SPRING INSTALLED THE C CLIPS WILL COME OUT WITH IT INSTALLED
  3. The four bolts hidden by the axle hold the brake backing plates on.  Remove brake lines from rear of wheel cylinder on both sides, Remove all of the old brake parts as one unit, repeat on the other side.  Remember to keep the bolts as they hold on the new NRC brackets. (Backing plates are not re-used).
  4. Your new NRC brackets mount where the backing plates used to be.  Mount the brackets so the top (The part with two ears) tilts inboard and to the rear of the car re-using the bolts from step 6.  They are marked left and right-they may appear to be the same, but are not.
  5. PUT ‘C’ CLIPS ON AND PUSH AXLES BACK TO THEIR NORMAL POSITION. Install pin to hold axles.
  6. Mount rotors using one or two lug nuts. Mount support brackets without calipers and check for fit.  We over offset our brackets inboard intentionally.  We have found that there are variations in rear ends, gears and axles.  It is much easier to shim out than to grind off to fit.   The install order is bolt head, bracket washer caliper.  If the washers need to be doubled that is fine.  No washer is also fine, the key is to center the support bracket over the rotor.  It is close, but as long at there is space on both sides of the rotor it is fine.  Remember to get C clips in before checking calipers and rotors for fit.  The optional dust shields can be mounted at this time.
  7. Put the flex line in place on the top of the lower control arm mount, right between the shock and the housing where the old hard line was.  It fits really well in one spot, it lines the soft brake hose with the caliper well the soft line will have a nice S bend.  The hard line will need to be bent or relocated to line up.  Two holes may need to be drilled-one for the mounting hole and one for the alignment tab.  If the original line clamps have the screws in them, you can use them or get another to keep the lines fixed in their original location.  We have found that relocating the lines works the best, so using the old screws in the new holes works fine.
  8. Cut, bend and double flare the hard line to go from the old drums to the newly mounted soft line.  The hard line will be cut several inches in order to fit.  Use the supplied red fitting to make the connection.  Don’t forget to put the fitting on before you flare the line.  (If this sounds like the voice of experience, it is)!
  9. Make sure all the connections to the brake system are tight. Bleed brakes, reinstall traction lock pin, bolt and cover. Fill with fluid, reinstall wheels, remove vehicle from jack stands and test brakes in a safe area

 

SN95 Instructions

Place vehicle securely on jack stands prior to starting disassembly. Remove wheels and old drums

  1. Remove cover in the center of rear end and catch the gear oil.  If fluid is old, replace with new and add new friction modifier after all steps below are finished.  Once cover is off, remove the 5/16” bolt that holds the big pin in the center of the traction lock unit. Remove pin once free.  Be careful not to break the pin.  It is held in with loc-tite tm.  And may be tough to get out, do not force it, get a little heat on it if needed
  2. Tap axles in to expose the C clips in the center of rear end.  The big pin held the axles, so this is where the C clips will be.  Remove C clips on each side, if worn-replace clips.  Once C clips are out/off, the axles should slide out.
  3. The four bolts hidden by the axle hold the brake backing plates on.  Remove them from both sides and keep the bolts (backing plates are not re-used).  Remove brake lines from wheel cylinders and Remove all of the old brake parts as one unit, repeat on the other side.
  4. Your new brackets mount where the backing plates used to be.  Mount the brackets so the top tilts inboard and to the rear of the car re-using the bolts from step 6.  There is a left and right and they are marked L and R.  They may appear to be the same, but are not.   The brackets mount pointing towards the gas tank.  Make sure the bracket seats onto the end of the axle fully.  If the housing is rusty cleaning the end of the housing will make sure it fits securely.
  5. Once the brackets are mounted, reinstall the axles.  If you had 4 lug and have switched to 5 check the length. North Racecars, Motorsport, or early Ranger driver side axles all work but the North Racecars are the only ones hub centric.  PUT ‘C’ CLIPS ON AND PUSH AXLES BACK TO NORMAL POSITION. Reinstall the big pin.
  6. Mount rotors, caliper support bracket and the supplied spacers and check for fit.  There are some good pictures on the website.  It is close, but as long at they are centered, it is fine.  Remember to get C clips on before checking calipers and rotors for fit.  In some cases, due to many variations in factory parts, especially pinion depth shimming the caliper with the provided washers may/will be needed.  In short, put the rotor in the center of the  support bracket.  A couple of lug nuts to hold the rotor will be needed.  Dust shields can be mounted on the inside or outside of the bracket at this time.  If mounted from outside, rotor will have to be removed to mount.  Mount caliper. 
  7. Put the flex line in place on the top of the lower control arm mount.  It fits really well in one spot and will line the soft brake hose with the caliper well.  The hard line will need to be bent and/or relocated to line up.  Two holes will need to be drilled-one for the mounting hole and one for the alignment tab.  If the line clamps have the screws in them, you can use them or get another to keep the lines fixed in their original location.  We have found that relocating the lines works the best, so using the old screws in the new holes works fine.
  8. Cut, bend and double flare the hard line to go from the old drums to the newly mounted soft line.  The hard line will be cut several inches in order to fit.  Use the fitting supplied in the hardware kit to make the connection.  Don’t forget to put the fitting on before you flare the line.  (If this sounds like the voice of experience, it is)!
  9. Make sure all the connections to the brake system are tight. Bleed brakes, reinstall traction lock pin, bolt and cover. Fill with fluid, reinstall wheels, remove vehicle from jack stands and test brakes in a safe area.