4 Lug Rear Disk Installation Instructions
Drum to Disc/ 10.125 inch Rotor 88 Turbo coupe parts
Additional Parts list needed for installation:
Rotors-2 needed 5455 generic part for 88 Turbo coupe
Soft lines from caliper to housing (1ea) Brake best 380371 380372 these are for a mustang but are much less money than the TC parts
Calipers Turbo Coupe loaded (1ea) #4509 and 4508 Loaded make sure they come with the support or pad bracket
New E-brake cables 2 needed 79-92 #M2809A (2) Ford racing or North racecars NOT local
Dust Shields-2 needed (Dealer item only) #F4ZZ 2C028A generally we do not install these.
Place vehicle securely on jack stands prior to starting disassembly. Remove wheels and brake drums on both sides
- Remove cover in the center of rear end and catch the gear oil. If fluid is old, replace with new and add new friction modifier after all steps below are finished. Once cover is off, remove the 5/16” bolt that holds the big pin in the center of the traction lock unit. Remove pin once free.
- Tap axles in to expose the C clips in the center of rear end. The big pin held the axles, so this is where the C clips will be. Remove C clips on each side, if worn-replace clips. Once C clips are out/off, the axles should slide out. DO NOT TURN EITHER AXLE WHILE REMOVING OR INSTALLING OR THE SPIDER GEARS WILL FALL OUT. THEY ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL. ALSO LEAVE THE SPRING INSTALLED THE C CLIPS WILL COME OUT WITH THEM INSTALLED
- The four bolts hidden by the axle hold the brake backing plates on. Remove brake lines from rear of wheel cylinder on both sides, Remove all of the old brake parts as one unit, repeat on the other side. Remember to keep the bolts as they hold on the new NRC brackets. (Backing plates are not re-used).
- Your new brackets mount where the backing plates used to be. Mount the brackets so the top (The part with two ears) tilts inboard and to the rear of the car re-using the bolts from step 6. They are marked left and right-they may appear to be the same, but are not.
- PUT ‘C’ CLIPS ON AND PUSH AXLES BACK TO THEIR NORMAL POSITION. Install pin to hold axles.
- Mount rotors using one or two lug nuts. Mount support brackets and check for fit. We over offset our brackets inboard intentionally. We have found that there are variations in rear ends, gears and axles. It is much easier to shim out than to grind off to fit. The install order is bolt head, bracket washer caliper. If the washers need to be doubled that is fine. No washer is also fine, the key is to center the support bracket over the rotor. It is close, but as long at there is space on both sides of the rotor it is fine. Remember to get C clips on before checking calipers and rotors for fit. The optional dust shields can be mounted at this time.
- Put the flex line in place on the top of the lower control arm mount, right between the shock and the housing where the old hard line was. It fits really well in one spot, it lines the soft brake hose with the caliper well the soft line will have a nice S bend. The hard line will need to be bent or relocated to line up. Two holes may need to be drilled-one for the mounting hole and one for the alignment tab. If the original line clamps have the screws in them, you can use them or get another to keep the lines fixed in their original location. We have found that relocating the lines works the best, so using the old screws in the new holes works fine.
- Cut, bend and double flare the hard line to go from the old drums to the newly mounted soft line. The hard line will be cut several inches in order to fit. Use the supplied red fitting to make the connection. Don’t forget to put the fitting on before you flare the line. (If this sounds like the voice of experience, it is)!
- Make sure all the connections to the brake system are tight. Bleed brakes, reinstall traction lock pin, bolt and cover. Fill with fluid, reinstall wheels, remove vehicle from jack stands and test brakes in a safe area.